Island Peak
Nepal
14 Days
Chukkung Valley
Mod / Diff
6189 m
Approx 08hrs daily
Imja Tse peak or also popularly known as Island Peak stands tall with a modest height of 6,189m. With very few technical aspects, it is perfect bridge from trekking to mountaineering for beginners. Hence, it is one of the most popular choices to achieve your first 6000m mountain summit.
Expedition Highlights
K2 and Mt Everest summiteer Jason Black personally guides this expedition.
The expedition begins after landing at Lukla airport then trekking up to Namche Bazaar spending a couple of nights to acclimatise.
The climbers acquaint themselves gradually while trekking up through the Kumbu valley, visiting the beautiful sherpa villages along the way.
Once arriving at Dingboche we have an extra day set aside to arrange your climbing gear rental and also to complete a mornings training on crampons and rope skills required for Island peak. Dingboche is a really important village and altitude for climbers to familiarise them-self with the climatic condition before actually pushing to the summit. While Island peak is classified as not a very difficult climb, it requires a very high level of fitness to be successful.
After reaching the top, you will be greeted to an exquisite view of Lhotse Shar, Makalu, Baruntse, and AmaDablam. Island peak was first ascended by Tenzing Norgay who was a part of the British Team preparing for the Everest Triumph. After reaching the summit, you descend via the main Everest Trail to Lukla Airport.
Route Map
Trip Details
2026 Dates
01 April 2026
Includes
- DOMESTIC FLIGHT Expedition start from lukla
- AIRPORT PICK-UP & DROP : Airport – Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 3 nights hotel in Kathmandu (3 Star Category) on a bed & breakfast
- WELCOME DINNER : Jason Black mountaineering welcome team dinner in Kathmandu.
- PERMITS : All necessary paper works: Island Peak climbing Permit from NMA, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry fee.
- GARBAGE : Expedition garbage fees.
- STAFF INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and climbing.
- CLIMBING STUFF TRANSPORTATION : Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Phaplu (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters)– While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo).
- MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 15 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porters.
- FOODS & LODGING : 3 Food 3 meals a day (BDL; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek.
- DRINKS : 2 liters of boiled water to carry on thermos per day per member.
- PORTERS : Porters (1 member: 1 Porter) during the trek.
- CLIMBING SHERPA : 1:2
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
- STAFF SALARY & ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porters’ daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with appropriate charge).
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE : Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for a member, high altitude tent (sharing basis), high food for a member, Sherpa, and climbing crews. Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- LIGHT : Necessary light at all tents. * if required.
- MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit.
- SUMMIT CERTIFICATE : Island Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (after climbing the Island Peak successfully).
Excludes
- INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT: from and to your home land.
- NEPAL VISA FEES : Nepali Visa fee $50 per person for 30 days paid at airport on arrival.
- LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU : Extra Accommodation per night $70 single $100 Double
- INSURANCE : Travel and high-altitude insurance, accident, helicopter evacuation.
- PERSONAL EXPENSES : Internet, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry etc
- EQUIPMENT HIRE : Boots, Crampons, Harness – hardwear, Helment – $150
- PORTER TIP : $150 per person
- SHERPA SUMMIT BONUS : $200 (split between two climbers :1 sherpa ratio)
Practical Info
Frequently asked questions
The following frequently asked questions may help answer any queries you have about Jason Black Mountaineering, what this expedition involves, and what is required. If your question isn’t answered here please check our dedicated Expert Advice page, otherwise don’t hesitate to get in touch.
How Fit Do You Need to Be to Climb Island Peak (Imja Tse – 6,189m)?
Climbing Island Peak (6,189m) requires good physical fitness, but it’s less demanding than Aconcagua in terms of endurance and altitude. However, it has technical sections that require basic mountaineering skills. You need to be strong, well-acclimatised, and able to sustain long efforts at high altitude.
📌 Physical Requirements for Island Peak
1. Endurance & Cardiovascular Fitness
- Long trekking days (6–8+ hours) leading up to base camp.
- Summit day is 10–14 hours round trip at high altitude.
- Oxygen levels are around 50% of sea level at the summit.
- You need the stamina to handle a 1,000m+ ascent on summit day.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Hike 12–18 km (7–11 miles) with a 12–15 kg pack at least once a week.
- Stair climbing (30–45 min) with a 10 kg pack.
- Running (5–10 km at a steady pace, 3–4 times a week).
2. Strength & Load-Carrying Ability
- The approach trek to Island Peak involves multiple days of hiking with a 10–12 kg backpack.
- Summit day includes a steep headwall on fixed ropes, requiring leg, core, and upper body strength.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Squats, lunges, deadlifts (for leg power).
- Step-ups (40–50 cm box) with a weighted pack.
- Pull-ups and farmer’s carries (for rope work and ice axe use).
- Planks & hanging leg raises (for core strength).
3. High-Altitude Acclimatisation
- The EBC trek (5,364m) serves as acclimatisation, but Island Peak is much higher.
- Many climbers suffer from AMS (acute mountain sickness) due to poor acclimatisation.
- Hydration, nutrition, and gradual ascent are crucial.
✅ Preparation Recommendations:
- If possible, train at altitude (above 3,500m) before your trip.
- Use a hypoxic training system or sleep in an altitude tent.
- Spend extra rest days at high altitudes before summit push.
4. Technical Skills & Rope Work
- Final headwall (45–50 degrees steep) requires using jumar (ascender) on a fixed rope.
- You’ll need to abseil (rappel) down on descent.
- Walking on a glacier with crampons and an ice axe is necessary.
✅ Skills to Practice:
- Fixed rope climbing with a jumar (practice before the trip).
- Walking in crampons on mixed terrain (snow, ice, and rock).
- Rappelling with a figure-eight or belay device.
- Using an ice axe for balance & self-arrest techniques.
5. Mental Toughness
- You’ll be trekking for 10+ days before the climb (can be exhausting).
- Cold temperatures, altitude sickness, and fatigue will push your limits.
- Pushing through the final summit ridge & headwall requires mental grit.
✅ Mental Training:
- Train in bad weather (rain, wind, cold).
- Push through exhaustion with back-to-back training days.
- Simulate long hours in uncomfortable conditions (cold early morning hikes).
📍 Minimum Fitness Benchmarks for Island Peak
You should be able to:
✅ Hike 1,000m+ elevation gain with a 10 kg pack (6–8 hrs).
✅ Run 10 km in under 55 minutes (for cardio endurance).
✅ Climb stairs for 45 min with a 10 kg pack.
✅ Do 10+ pull-ups (for rope work & upper body endurance).
✅ Carry a 15 kg pack for multiple days.
⛏ Who Should NOT Attempt Island Peak?
🚫 If you have no trekking or high-altitude experience.
🚫 If you cannot hike 6–8 hours a day for multiple days.
🚫 If you don’t have basic rope skills (or don’t plan to learn).
🚫 If you struggle with cold weather and altitude sickness.
Final Thoughts
Island Peak is not extremely technical, but it’s not a trekking peak either. You need solid endurance, strength, and basic mountaineering skills.
Do you want a specific training plan for Island Peak? Let me know your current fitness level, and I’ll customise one for you!
Here’s a 12-week training plan for Island Peak (6,189m), designed to build endurance, strength, altitude preparedness, and basic technical skills.
Island Peak Training Plan (12 Weeks)
Goal: Develop the cardio endurance, leg strength, and technical skills needed for the long trek and the steep summit push.
Weekly Schedule Overview
Day |
Activity |
Monday |
Strength Training + Stair Climb with Pack |
Tuesday |
Cardio (Running/Cycling) + Core |
Wednesday |
Weighted Hike (8–15 km) |
Thursday |
Strength + Endurance (Step-ups, Rope Work) |
Friday |
Rest or Light Recovery (Yoga, Stretching) |
Saturday |
Long Hike (15–20 km, 800–1,200m ascent) |
Sunday |
Technical Skills + Active Recovery (Swimming, Cycling) |
Phase 1 (Weeks 1–4): Base Building
Goal: Build cardio endurance, leg strength, and pack-carrying ability.
✅ Hiking:
- 8–12 km (5–7 miles) with a 10 kg pack
- 600–800m elevation gain
- 3–4 hours duration
✅ Strength Training (2x per week)
- Squats – 4 sets of 8
- Lunges – 3 sets of 10 per leg
- Step-ups (40–50 cm box) – 3 sets of 12 per leg (with a weighted pack)
- Pull-ups – 3 sets of 6 (for rope work)
- Planks – 3 x 1 min (for core stability)
✅ Cardio Training
- 45–60 min runs at moderate pace
- Stair climbing (30 min with a 5 kg pack)
- Cycling/swimming for active recovery
✅ Technical Skills
- If possible, practice basic rope work (ascending with a jumar).
- Train with a loaded backpack (simulating trek conditions).
Phase 2 (Weeks 5–8): Strength & Endurance Boost
Goal: Increase hiking difficulty, pack weight, and technical skills.
✅ Hiking:
- 12–18 km (7–11 miles) with a 12–15 kg pack
- 800–1,200m elevation gain
- 5+ hours duration
✅ Strength Training (2x per week)
- Increase weights for squats, lunges, deadlifts
- Farmer’s carry (15–20 kg each hand) – 3 sets of 30m
- Stair climbing (40+ min with a 10 kg pack)
✅ Cardio & Endurance
- Interval running session (5x 3 min fast, 3 min slow)
- Long hikes back-to-back on weekends
- Rowing or swimming (improves lung capacity)
✅ Technical Skills
- Practice with a jumar on a fixed rope (if you have access).
- Try using an ice axe on steep terrain.
- Train with crampons on mixed terrain (hills, snow, loose rock).
Phase 3 (Weeks 9–12): Peak Performance & Final Prep
Goal: Simulated altitude training, endurance, and technical readiness.
✅ Hiking (Most Important)
- 15+ km (9+ miles) with a 15 kg pack
- 1,200m elevation gain
- Back-to-back long hikes (Saturday & Sunday)
- Final test: Summit a local peak or train at 4,000m+ (if possible)
✅ Strength & Endurance Training
- Stair Climbing (45–60 min with 12–15 kg pack)
- Bulgarian Split Squats – 3 sets of 10 per leg
- Dead Hangs – 3 sets of 30 sec (for grip strength)
✅ Technical Skills
- Full simulated climb with fixed rope/jumar setup
- Abseiling (rappelling) practice with a figure-eight device
- Walking on a slope with crampons & ice axe
✅ Altitude & Cold Exposure
- If possible, train at altitude (above 3,500m) before your trip.
- Practice cold weather training with full gear.
✅ Mental Prep
- Simulate summit day: Start a long hike before sunrise with limited food/water.
- Train in bad weather to test mental resilience.
Final Prep (Last 2 Weeks)
🔹 Reduce heavy training (Tapering)
🔹 Focus on sleep, stretching, and light hikes
🔹 Pack & gear test (Fully loaded backpack, boots, and summit gear)
🔹 Simulate high-altitude breathing (practice slow, deep breaths)
Key Training Tips
✔ Train with your backpack & boots early!
✔ Use trekking poles for stair climbs and hikes.
✔ Hydration & nutrition practice – Know what fuels you best.
✔ Recovery matters! – Foam roll, stretch, and prioritise sleep.
✔ Train in extreme conditions (rain, snow, wind, heat).
Are You Ready for Island Peak?
✅ Can you hike 1,200m+ with a 15 kg pack?
✅ Can you handle 8–10 hour hikes back-to-back?
✅ Have you trained in cold, high-wind conditions?
✅ Do you feel comfortable with fixed ropes & jumaring?
If you can check all the boxes, you’re in solid shape! Let me know if you want customised adjustments based on your current fitness level!
Passport 6mts Valid
Debit/Credit Cards Insurance
Papers Photocopy of passportBase Layers
Merino Wool Underwear (4 pcs)
Merino long sleeve base layer (1 pcs)
Merino long pants base layer (1 pcs)
Merino Short Sleeve T Shirt (2 pcs)
Mid Layers
Tech Fleece (1pcs)
Tech fleece with hood (1pcs)
Hiking shorts (2pcs)
Heavyweight
Hiking Pants (1pcs)
Lightweight Hiking Pants (2pcs)
Windproof/Rain Layers
Hard Shell Jacket (1pcs)
Hard Shell Pants (1pcs)
Insulation Layers
800+gram Goose Down Jacket with hood
Insulated Pants
Lite puffer jacket
Headwear
Warm Hat (2pcs)
Balaclava (1pcs)
Baseball Cap (1pcs)
Bandana or Buff (2pcs)
Eyewear
Cat 4 Glacier Glasses
UV Nose protector
Ski Googles
Gloves
Lightweight Liner Gloves
Shell Guide Glove with Insulated Liner 7000m
Expedition Mitts
Footwear
Liner Socks (2 pairs)
Wool or Synthetic Socks (3 pairs)
Double Skin Mountaineering Boots 6000 (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet)
Trekking Approach Shoes
Refuge Shoes – crocs or sandals.
Gaiters (optional)
Sleeping Equipment
Sleeping Bag -20°C
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
Earplugs
Inflatable Pillow
Mountaineering Gear
Large 120ltr Duffel Bag
Trekking Backpack 35L-50L
Trekking poles (optional)
Ice Axe (1pcs)
Crampons
“Y” Rig for ascender & carabiner
Proper Climbing Harness
Locking Carabineers (3pcs)
Un-locking Carabineers (2pcs)
Sling / 240 cm (1pcs)
Headlight 500-700 Lumens (2pcs)
Travel Items
Travel Clothes
Cash
Visa Card
ATM card
Additional Food Items
Snack food
Salty-sweet bars
Summit gels
Nuts
Beef jerky
Medical/First Aid
Personal First-aid kit
Compeed blister packs
Sutures & steri strips
Ibuprofen
Paracetamol
250mg Diamox 10 days
Medicated throat lozenges
Medicated throat spray
Antibiotic Azithromycin 500mg
Laxatives
Imodium
Mosquito repellent
Menstrual products
Electrolytes
Nail cutter
Duct tape – Repair Kit
Hand & Feet chemical warmers
Toiletries (Personal)
Toilet Paper
Toothpaste &Toothbrush
Bio Baby wipes (2pcs)
Soap
Shampoo
Shaver
Towel
Small nail-brush
Sunscreen: SPF 50
Lip Screen: SPF 30 Aftersun
Additional Items
Compression Stuff Sacks
Water Bottles 1- liter (2pcs)
Pee Bottle 1- litre
Female Urination Device (FUD)
Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
Optional Electronics
Country-appropriate power adapters
Adventure Sports Watch
Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
Phone camera
Batteries
Charging leads
You may pay your deposit and balance using any lawful means. If sending money by electronic bank transfer then you will be responsible for covering the cost of the fees associated with the transfer, so that the company receives the full amount shown on your invoice, in the denomination shown on your invoice.
See more about our payment policy Here
On Booking your expedition our returns policy can be viewed here
It is your responsibility to ensure that you have sufficient personal Insurance for this expedition. Your policy must provide cover for:
Trip cancellation
Travel disruption
Medical injury or sickness
Trekking up to 5,600 metres
Helicopter evacuation in an emergency situation
Repatriation to country of residence.
We recommend:
https://www.truetraveller.com
or
Global rescue
Due to unanticipated reasons, for example, injury, family issues, work commitments, etc., clients may need to cancel their trip before the start or during the expedition. Considering these factors, it’s better to be prepared for the possibilities.
As mentioned in the Terms and Conditions of Jason Black mountaineering, the company is exempt from being liable for different expenses that may occur in case of different emergencies or unforeseen situations. Both facts point out the requirement of a client to purchase an elaborate travel insurance plan in their place of origin that protects their interest in case of trip cancellation, helicopter evacuation, medical emergencies, other illnesses, lost luggage, theft, disasters, death, and so on.
You are free to pick your insurer however look for an arrangement that covers trip postponement and cancellation, rescue, and covers medical as well. Guarantee it doesn’t have limitations on the height you will climb, prohibitions on the exercises you are embracing, or the places you will be visiting. Protect yourself with the right insurance so you can go on your expedition with peace of mind and focus more on your climbing.
Please make sure to send us a copy of your insurance policy before you start your expedition so that we can assist you in any case of an emergency.