12-Week Training Plan for Ama Dablam (6,812m)

This 12-week training plan is designed to prepare you for the physical and technical demands of Ama Dablam, one of the most challenging and technical 6,000m peaks. The plan focuses on endurance, strength, altitude adaptation, and technical climbing skills to ensure you have the fitness and resilience needed for a successful summit.

📌 Weekly Training Schedule Overview

🏋️‍♂️ Phase 1 (Weeks 1–4): Building Base Endurance & Strength

Goal: Develop high-altitude endurance, core stability, and upper/lower body strength to handle rock, ice, and steep climbs.

✅ Hiking & Trekking

• 10–15 km (6–9 miles) hikes with a 12–15 kg backpack.
• 600–1,000m elevation gain.
• 4–6 hours duration.
• Use trekking poles for knee protection and stability.

✅ Strength Training (2x per week)

• Squats – 4 sets of 10 reps.
• Lunges – 3 sets of 10 reps per leg.
• Step-ups (50 cm box) with a weighted pack – 3 sets of 12 reps per leg.
• Deadlifts – 3 sets of 8 reps (for core and lower back strength).
• Pull-ups & Dead Hangs – 3 sets of 6 reps (for rope work and climbing strength).
• Planks & Hanging Leg Raises (for core stability).

✅ Cardio Training

• 60 min runs or cycling/swimming at moderate intensity.
• Stair climbing (30 min with a 10 kg pack).
• Rowing or incline treadmill for lung capacity improvement.

✅ Technical Training

• Basic rock climbing (5.6–5.7 difficulty).
• Practice rappelling and using an ascender (Jumar).
• Walking in crampons on varied terrain.

🏔 Phase 2 (Weeks 5–8): Strength, Altitude Adaptation & Technical Training

Goal: Increase hiking difficulty, elevation gain, and technical climbing ability.

✅ Hiking & Trekking

• 15–20 km (9–12 miles) with a 15–18 kg pack.
• 1,000–1,200m elevation gain.
• 6–8 hours duration.
• Back-to-back hikes on weekends (Saturday & Sunday).

✅ Strength & Load Carrying (2x per week)

• Step-ups (50 cm box) with a 15 kg pack – 3 sets of 15 reps per leg.
• Deadlifts – 4 sets of 6 reps (for pack-carrying strength).
• Farmer’s Carry (20 kg per hand) – 3 sets of 30m (for grip & backpack strength).
• Pull-ups & Grip Training (for technical climbing and fixed ropes).

✅ Cardio & Endurance

• 70 min continuous run, cycling, or swimming.
• High-Intensity Interval Training (HIIT): 5x 3 min fast, 3 min slow.
• Rowing or stair climbing for 45 min with a 12 kg pack.

✅ Technical Training & Terrain Adaptation

• Rock climbing (5.7–5.9 difficulty) with a pack.
• Fixed rope ascents with Jumar and rappelling practice.
• Glacier travel techniques and ice axe work.

✅ Acclimatisation & Altitude Prep

• If possible, train at high altitude (above 4,000m).
• Use an altitude tent or hypoxic mask for simulation.
• Increase exposure to cold weather & strong winds.

🏆 Phase 3 (Weeks 9–12): Peak Performance & Expedition Simulation

Goal: Simulate multi-day climbing, maximise endurance, and finalise preparations.

✅ Hiking & Load-Carrying

• 20–25 km (12–15 miles) with a 15–20 kg pack.
• 1,200–1,500m elevation gain.
• Back-to-back long hikes (Saturday & Sunday) – 8+ hours per day.
• Summit a local peak (if possible) to simulate high-altitude trekking.

✅ Final Strength & Endurance Training

• Stair Climbing (60 min with a 15 kg pack).
• Bulgarian Split Squats – 3 sets of 12 per leg.
• Planks & Hanging Leg Raises – 3 sets of 1 min.

✅ Technical & Cold-Weather Training

• Train in full cold-weather gear at night (simulate summit day conditions).
• Rock climb at 5.8–5.9 difficulty with a loaded pack.
• Ice axe and crampon practice on steep terrain.
• Simulate an alpine start (hike at 3 AM with heavy pack).

✅ Mental Training & Simulation

• Practice long hikes in freezing temperatures (-10°C if possible).
• Train in remote locations to simulate expedition conditions.
• Visualise and mentally prepare for summit day exhaustion.

✅ Recovery & Injury Prevention

• Cold showers & ice baths to prepare for extreme temperatures.
• Stretching & foam rolling to prevent muscle tightness.

📍Final 2 Weeks (Taper & Recovery)

🔹 Reduce heavy training (Taper).
🔹 Focus on mobility, stretching, and rest.
🔹 Test your full gear & pack during a light hike.
🔹 Hydration & nutrition strategy practice.

💡 Key Training Tips

✔ Train in your boots & backpack early to get used to heavy loads.
✔ Use trekking poles to protect knees on long descents.
✔ Train slow, steady breathing at altitude to improve oxygen efficiency.
✔ Practice on mixed terrain (rock, ice, loose scree, high exposure).
✔ Train in extreme conditions (cold, high wind, night trekking).
✔ Hydration & nutrition practice – Know what fuels you best.
✔ Recovery matters! – Foam roll, stretch, and prioritise sleep.

🚀 Are You Ready for Ama Dablam?

✅ Can you hike 1,500m+ with a 20 kg pack?
✅ Can you handle 8-hour climbs back-to-back at altitude?
✅ Have you trained in cold, high-altitude conditions?
✅ Are you comfortable with technical climbing, rock scrambling, and rappelling?

If you check all the boxes, you’re ready for one of the Himalayas’ greatest challenges!

Would you like customised adjustments based on your fitness level? Let me know!

We’ll look at your previous experience, and analyse key performance data, that we’ll ask you to share when you sign up. We can then recommend preparation climbs leading up to this expedition, to give you the best possible chance of reaching your goal, if required.