Just when we thought Jasons luck had changed and was finally able to make his way to the summit of Mt McKinley we received the following messages:
‘ Mt McKinley you are making my life hell and back. After everything endured & a break in weather we give the grueling West Rib a final stab. 7hrs of -15 freezing temperatures. We scaled 3000ft through dreaded death valley by now loaded seracs peer down. l travelled as freezing temps holds avalanche creep. At arriving at the head of the glacier , climbing was so difficult as soon as we tackled the Blue lce Head Wall -100s meters straight up & the gateway to the rib ridge within the eery silence it became obvious it was not passable and within a deadly assassin ready to strike. The severe weeks snow storms took its tole , leaving us to retreat with its West Rib approach to the summit. Returning down to camp 1 frustrated after 11 painful hours breaking deep snow trail & climbing focused on success. Need to sleep now & see tomorrow’s plan. Sorry for the pain i feel it big time. Obstacle needs a solution. No mountain too high , no problem too big to conquer. Love you all , J x’
‘Ok. Had a good sleep & realistic talk with myself , the only option available now is the West Buttress. Not what i came here to do. factors at this stage to consider is weather,clear till Wednesday. snow on its way again,l still need to build time 2 allow acclimatize as i climb & time before flights out of here.summit success needs all these perfect with no glitches. For now thats it grim outlook but positive & strong.Food today has helped aid recovery.Arctic has proved a real test this expedition has thrown everything it possibly could at me the big one being 20yr record snows trapping me for 8 days then allowing 2 days for avalanche settle i guess same as life and real world. Life in this world tests your real self belief & applying life skills seldom used daily back home a resilience we have all built in. J’
Hi Jason remember you can always go back another day. Eat plenty stay safe and warm you need all your bits! 😉 the mountain looks a right B:as:ard if there a way up you will find it, trust you to go when their having the worst weather for 22 years when your coming home don’t bring any of it with you. Have you met any nice wee men to sit and chat to and make them tea? Get the job done and come home. Terry