Country
Nepal
DURATION
29 days
Route
Southwestern ridge
Grade
Difficult
MAX ALTITUDE
6812 m
22349 ft
Daily Activity
Approx
7-9 hrs
Dates Available
01 Apr 2025
01 Apr 2026
Price
Deposit €399 on booking.
AmaDablam and Island Peak
Highlights
The Ama Dablam and Island Peak Combo Expedition starts with a trek to higher altitudes, beginning at 2,800m and gradually ascending through increasingly challenging terrain.
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After acclimatizing and trekking to 4,730m, climbers reach Island Peak High Camp at 5,550m for a summit attempt at 6,189m. Following a return to Chhukung, the journey continues to AmaDablam Basecamp at 4,450m, where climbers rest and prepare for a demanding rotation between Basecamp and Camps 1 and 2.
The final push to the summit of AmaDablam at 6,812m presents steep, technical challenges, requiring advanced climbing skills. After summiting, the expedition ends with a descent back to 2,800m, with extra days built in to account for potential weather delays.
Jason black will be the expedition leader and with one of the most ground-breaking Irish mountaineers of a generation at your side, you’ll be in the very best company to reach beyond what you thought was possible and become an Ama Dablam and Island Peak summiteer.
AmaDablam and Island Peak
Trip Details
Day 1
Elevation: 1400m
Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
Day 2
Elevation: 1400m
Trek briefing, prepare permits, gear check & shopping –
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Day 3
Elevation: 2860m
Drive to Ramechap (1,218 m), fly to Lukla (2,860 m) & commence trek to Phakding (2,610 m)
Day 4
Elevation: 3,440m
Trek to Namche Bazar
Day 5
Elevation: 3,440m
Acclimatisation at Namche Bazaar (Rest Day)
Day 6
Elevation: 3,860m
Trek to Tengboche
Day 7
Elevation: 4,243m
Trek to Dingboche
Day 8
Elevation: 4,243m
Acclimatisation and training day at Dingboche (Rest Day)
Day 9
Elevation: 4,730m
Trek to Chhukung
Day 10
Elevation: 4,970m
Hike to Island Peak Basecamp
Day 11
Elevation: 6,189m
Summit Island Peak & back to Chhukung.
Day 12
Elevation: 3,985m
Trek to Dingboche
Day 13
Elevation: 4,450m
Trek to Ama Dablam Basecamp
Day 14 – 17
Basecamp Preparation; Rest Days
Day 17-24
Climb to camp 1
Climb to camp 2
Climb to camp 3
Climb to Summit
Descend to basecamp.
Day 25
Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 26
Trek to Lukla
Day 27
Fly back to Ramechhap & further drive back to Kathmandu
Day 28
Final departure.
Day 29-30
Due to common fog issues in lukla its advised to have 2 extra days built into your itinerary.
For detailed information, download our Information Pack below.
Includes
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Excludes
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For detailed information, download our Information Pack below.

Practical Info
Frequently asked questions
The following frequently asked questions may help answer any queries you have about Jason Black Mountaineering, what this expedition involves, and what is required. If your question isn’t answered here please check our dedicated Expert Advice page, otherwise don’t hesitate to get in touch.
What skillset and fitness level are required?
All Jason BLack Mountaineering expeditions are within extreme high altitude environments, with differing requirements for ability. Due to the nature of these operational landscapes, it is essential you provide concise, honest descriptions of relevant experience and current fitness levels. Upon receipt, we will review your experience and respond accordingly. At this point, if we consider there to be any shortfalls, we can collectively discuss the opportunities and/or provide a training support plan to achieve your goals.
What equipment is provided?
All communal equipment is included ie. high quality ropes, stoves, tents etc. You are responsible for personal gear and clothing, eg. harness, crampons, helmet, ice axes etc. A full essentials list and advice (if required) will be provided at time of booking.
What transport are included?
We will cover all transport costs detailed within an expedition program as forementioned on our provided itinerary. This will exclude international flights to and from the destination countries. It is your responsibility to ensure these align with the start and finish of the expedition.
How Fit Do You Need to Be for Ama Dablam (6,812m)
Ama Dablam is one of the most technical and physically demanding 6,000m peaks in the Himalayas. It requires elite endurance, high-altitude acclimatisation, technical climbing skills, and mental resilience. This is not a trekking peak—it is a true alpine climbing challenge with steep rock, ice, and exposed ridge sections.
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📌 Physical Requirements for Ama Dablam
1. Elite Endurance & Cardiovascular Fitness
- The climb involves steep, sustained exertion for multiple days, with 1,000m+ daily ascents at high altitude.
- Summit day is 10–15 hours, requiring high oxygen efficiency and endurance at 6,812m.
- The approach trek takes 6–8 days to reach Base Camp (4,600m), with daily 5–7 hour hikes.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Hike 15–25 km (9–15 miles) with a 15–20 kg pack at least once a week.
- Stair climbing (60 min with a 15 kg pack).
- Running, cycling, or swimming (3–5 times a week, 45–90 min per session).
2. Strength & Load-Carrying Ability
- You will carry a 15–20 kg pack on steep, technical terrain.
- Expect vertical rock climbing (5.7–5.8 grade) with exposure at 6,000m+.
- The Yellow Tower (6,100m) and Mushroom Ridge (6,400m) require upper-body strength for rope ascents.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Squats, lunges, deadlifts (for leg power).
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a 15 kg pack.
- Planks & core exercises (for stability on uneven terrain).
- Farmer’s carry (15 kg per hand) for grip & pack strength.
- Pull-ups, dead hangs, and grip training (for rope ascents and rock climbing).
3. High-Altitude Acclimatisation
- You will be climbing and sleeping above 6,000m for multiple nights.
- The risk of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), HAPE, and HACE is high.
- A pre-acclimatisation climb (such as Island Peak, Lobuche East, or a 6,000m+ peak) is highly recommended.
✅ Preparation Recommendations:
- Train at altitude (above 4,000m) before the expedition if possible.
- Use a hypoxic tent or altitude training mask to simulate low oxygen levels.
- Practice deep breathing and controlled oxygen efficiency techniques.
4. Advanced Technical Climbing Skills
- Ama Dablam is a highly technical climb, requiring solid rock, ice, and mixed climbing skills.
- You must be proficient in fixed rope climbing, rappelling, and exposed ridge travel.
- The Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge are very exposed, requiring confidence with jumars and self-belays.
✅ Skills to Master Before Attempting Ama Dablam:
- Climbing at least 5.7–5.8 rock grade with a backpack.
- Ice axe use & crampon techniques on steep ice/snow slopes (50–60°).
- Jumar (ascender) use for fixed rope climbing.
- Rappelling and self-arrest techniques.
- Multi-pitch rock climbing (practice on alpine routes).
5. Mental Toughness & Resilience
- Ama Dablam’s exposed ridges, vertical walls, and high-altitude suffering will push you to your limits.
- Expect extreme cold (-30°C), exhaustion, and the mental challenge of long exposure on steep terrain.
- You will spend multiple nights at high altitude (Camp 2, 5,900m) on small ledges.
✅ Mental Training:
- Train in cold, harsh conditions to simulate summit day suffering.
- Do long, exhausting training hikes and climbs back-to-back.
- Train with a weight vest or heavy pack to simulate climbing with gear.
- Practice multi-day alpine climbs with exposed ridges.
📍 Minimum Fitness Benchmarks for Ama Dablam
You should be able to:
✅ Hike 1,500m+ elevation gain with a 15–20 kg pack (6–10 hrs).
✅ Run 15 km in under 90 minutes (for high-altitude endurance).
✅ Climb stairs for 60 min with a 15 kg pack.
✅ Rock climb 5.7–5.8 comfortably with a pack.
✅ Perform 10+ pull-ups and dead hangs for 30+ sec (for rope work).
✅ Handle multi-day climbs above 6,000m and sleep at extreme altitude.
⛏ Who Should NOT Attempt Ama Dablam?
🚫 If you have no high-altitude climbing experience (above 6,000m).
🚫 If you cannot carry a heavy pack on steep terrain for multiple days.
🚫 If you lack technical mountaineering experience (rock, ice, fixed ropes, rappelling).
🚫 If you struggle with exposure, extreme cold, and altitude sickness.
Final Thoughts
Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful but demanding Himalayan peaks. It requires elite endurance, technical climbing ability, and mental resilience. If you have experience on 6,000m peaks and solid rock/ice climbing skills, you are ready to take on this legendary climb.
Would you like a 12-week training plan for Ama Dablam? Let me know your current fitness level, and I’ll tailor one for you!
12-Week Training Plan for Ama Dablam (6,812m)
This 12-week training plan is designed to prepare you for the physical and technical demands of Ama Dablam, one of the most challenging and technical 6,000m peaks. The plan focuses on endurance, strength, altitude adaptation, and technical climbing skills to ensure you have the fitness and resilience needed for a successful summit.
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📌 Weekly Training Schedule Overview
Day | Activity |
Monday | Strength Training + Stair Climb with Pack |
Tuesday | Cardio (Running/Cycling) + Core |
Wednesday | Weighted Hike (12–20 km) |
Thursday | Strength + Technical Skills (Rock Climbing, Ice Axe, Fixed Ropes) |
Friday | Rest or Light Recovery (Yoga, Stretching) |
Saturday | Long Hike (15–25 km, 1,000–1,500m ascent) |
Sunday | Active Recovery (Swimming, Cycling) or Altitude Training |
🏋️♂️ Phase 1 (Weeks 1–4): Building Base Endurance & Strength
Goal: Develop high-altitude endurance, core stability, and upper/lower body strength to handle rock, ice, and steep climbs.
✅ Hiking & Trekking
- 10–15 km (6–9 miles) hikes with a 12–15 kg backpack.
- 600–1,000m elevation gain.
- 4–6 hours duration.
- Use trekking poles for knee protection and stability.
✅ Strength Training (2x per week)
- Squats – 4 sets of 10 reps.
- Lunges – 3 sets of 10 reps per leg.
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a weighted pack – 3 sets of 12 reps per leg.
- Deadlifts – 3 sets of 8 reps (for core and lower back strength).
- Pull-ups & Dead Hangs – 3 sets of 6 reps (for rope work and climbing strength).
- Planks & Hanging Leg Raises (for core stability).
✅ Cardio Training
- 60 min runs or cycling/swimming at moderate intensity.
- Stair climbing (30 min with a 10 kg pack).
- Rowing or incline treadmill for lung capacity improvement.
✅ Technical Training
- Basic rock climbing (5.6–5.7 difficulty).
- Practice rappelling and using an ascender (Jumar).
- Walking in crampons on varied terrain.
🏔 Phase 2 (Weeks 5–8): Strength, Altitude Adaptation & Technical Training
Goal: Increase hiking difficulty, elevation gain, and technical climbing ability.
✅ Hiking & Trekking
- 15–20 km (9–12 miles) with a 15–18 kg pack.
- 1,000–1,200m elevation gain.
- 6–8 hours duration.
- Back-to-back hikes on weekends (Saturday & Sunday).
✅ Strength & Load Carrying (2x per week)
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a 15 kg pack – 3 sets of 15 reps per leg.
- Deadlifts – 4 sets of 6 reps (for pack-carrying strength).
- Farmer’s Carry (20 kg per hand) – 3 sets of 30m (for grip & backpack strength).
- Pull-ups & Grip Training (for technical climbing and fixed ropes).
✅ Cardio & Endurance
- 70 min continuous run, cycling, or swimming.
- High-Intensity Interval Training (HIIT): 5x 3 min fast, 3 min slow.
- Rowing or stair climbing for 45 min with a 12 kg pack.
✅ Technical Training & Terrain Adaptation
- Rock climbing (5.7–5.9 difficulty) with a pack.
- Fixed rope ascents with Jumar and rappelling practice.
- Glacier travel techniques and ice axe work.
✅ Acclimatisation & Altitude Prep
- If possible, train at high altitude (above 4,000m).
- Use an altitude tent or hypoxic mask for simulation.
- Increase exposure to cold weather & strong winds.
🏆 Phase 3 (Weeks 9–12): Peak Performance & Expedition Simulation
Goal: Simulate multi-day climbing, maximise endurance, and finalise preparations.
✅ Hiking & Load-Carrying
- 20–25 km (12–15 miles) with a 15–20 kg pack.
- 1,200–1,500m elevation gain.
- Back-to-back long hikes (Saturday & Sunday) – 8+ hours per day.
- Summit a local peak (if possible) to simulate high-altitude trekking.
✅ Final Strength & Endurance Training
- Stair Climbing (60 min with a 15 kg pack).
- Bulgarian Split Squats – 3 sets of 12 per leg.
- Planks & Hanging Leg Raises – 3 sets of 1 min.
✅ Technical & Cold-Weather Training
- Train in full cold-weather gear at night (simulate summit day conditions).
- Rock climb at 5.8–5.9 difficulty with a loaded pack.
- Ice axe and crampon practice on steep terrain.
- Simulate an alpine start (hike at 3 AM with heavy pack).
✅ Mental Training & Simulation
- Practice long hikes in freezing temperatures (-10°C if possible).
- Train in remote locations to simulate expedition conditions.
- Visualise and mentally prepare for summit day exhaustion.
✅ Recovery & Injury Prevention
- Cold showers & ice baths to prepare for extreme temperatures.
- Stretching & foam rolling to prevent muscle tightness.
📍Final 2 Weeks (Taper & Recovery)
🔹 Reduce heavy training (Taper).
🔹 Focus on mobility, stretching, and rest.
🔹 Test your full gear & pack during a light hike.
🔹 Hydration & nutrition strategy practice.
💡 Key Training Tips
✔ Train in your boots & backpack early to get used to heavy loads.
✔ Use trekking poles to protect knees on long descents.
✔ Train slow, steady breathing at altitude to improve oxygen efficiency.
✔ Practice on mixed terrain (rock, ice, loose scree, high exposure).
✔ Train in extreme conditions (cold, high wind, night trekking).
✔ Hydration & nutrition practice – Know what fuels you best.
✔ Recovery matters! – Foam roll, stretch, and prioritise sleep.
🚀 Are You Ready for Ama Dablam?
✅ Can you hike 1,500m+ with a 20 kg pack?
✅ Can you handle 8-hour climbs back-to-back at altitude?
✅ Have you trained in cold, high-altitude conditions?
✅ Are you comfortable with technical climbing, rock scrambling, and rappelling?
If you check all the boxes, you’re ready for one of the Himalayas’ greatest challenges!
Would you like customised adjustments based on your fitness level? Let me know!
We’ll look at your previous experience, and analyse key performance data, that we’ll ask you to share when you sign up. We can then recommend preparation climbs leading up to this expedition, to give you the best possible chance of reaching your goal, if required.
Travel Documents
Passport 6mts Valid
Debit/Credit Cards
Insurance Papers
Photocopy of passport
Base Layers
Merino Wool Underwear (4 pcs)
Merino long sleeve base layer (2 pcs)
Merino long pants base layer (2 pcs)
Merino Short Sleeve T Shirt (2 pcs)
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Mid Layers
Fleece (2pcs)
Heavyweight Hiking Pants (2pcs)
Lightweight Hiking Pants (2pcs)
Windproof/Rain Layers
Hard Shell Jacket (1pcs)
Hard Shell Pants (1pcs)
Insulation Layers
800+gram Goose Down Jacket with hood
Insulated Pants
Summit day Down Suit (optional)
Headwear
Warm Hat (2pcs)
Balaclava (1pcs)
Baseball Cap (1pcs)
Bandana or Buff (2pcs)
Eyewear
Cat 4 Glacier Glasses
UV Nose protector
Ski Goggles
Gloves
Lightweight Liner Gloves
Shell Guide Glove with Insulated Liner
7000m Expedition Mitts
Footwear
Liner Socks (3 pairs)
Wool or Synthetic Socks (3 pairs)
Double Skin Mountaineering Boots 6000-8000m (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet)
Trekking Approach Shoes
Camp Booties (optional)
Gaiters (optional)
Sleeping Equipment
Sleeping Bag -30°C
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
Closed-cell Foam Pad
Earplugs
Inflatable Pillow
Mountaineering Gear
Large 120ltr Duffel Bag
Expedition Backpack 75L+
Trekking Backpack 30L
Trekking poles (optional)
Ice Axe (2pcs)
Crampons
Climbing Helmet
Ascender/Jumar
“Y” Rig for ascender & carabiner
Accessory Cord: 9m of 6mm.
Proper Climbing Harness
Locking Carabineers (6pcs)
Un-locking Carabineers (2pcs)
Sling / 240 cm (2pcs)
Belay/Rappel Device (2pcs)
Headlight 500-700 Lumens (2pcs)
Travel Items
Small hotel Duffel Bag
Travel Clothes
Cash
Visa Card
ATM card
Medical
Personal First-aid kit
Sutures & steri strips
Ibuprofen
Paracetamol
250mg Diamox 20days
Medicated throat lozenges
Medicated throat spray
Antibiotic Azithromycin 500mg
Laxatives
Imodium
Mosquito repellent
Menstrual products
Electrolytes
Nail cutter
Duct tape – Repair Kit
Hand & Feet chemical warmers
Additional Food Items
Snack food
Salty-sweet bars
Summit gels
Nuts
Beef jerky
Toiletries (Personal)
Toilet Paper
Toothpaste &Toothbrush
Bio Baby wipes (2pcs)
Soap
Shampoo
Shaver
Towel
Small nail-brush
Sunscreen: SPF 50
Lip Screen: SPF 30
Aftersun
Additional Items
Compression Stuff Sacks
Plastic Cup (high camps)
Plastic Bowl (high camps)
Plastic Spoon (high camp)
Water Bottles 1- liter (3pcs)
Thermos 1- liter
Pee Bottle 1- litre
Female Urination Device (FUD)
Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
Optional Electronics
Country-appropriate power adapters
Avalanche Transceiver
Adventure Sports Watch
GPS/ Garmin inReach Mini
Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
Phone camera
Batteries
Charging leads
You may pay your deposit and balance using any lawful means. If sending money by electronic bank transfer then you will be responsible for covering the cost of the fees associated with the transfer, so that the company receives the full amount shown on your invoice, in the denomination shown on your invoice.
See more about our payment policy Here
On Booking your expedition our returns policy can be viewed here
This is Mandatory and you will not receive your permit to climb from the National park rangers until you show proof of Insurance for up to 7,000 meters at the park gate apron entry.
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It is your responsibility to ensure that you have sufficient personal travel insurance for this expedition. Your policy must provide cover for; a) medical injury or sickness b) trekking up to 7,000 meters (c) helicopter evacuation in an emergency situation, and d) repatriation to one’s country of residence. You must declare any pre-existing medical conditions to your insurers and ensure you receive written confirmation that any pre-existing medical conditions are fully insured. We advise you to obtain travel insurance as soon as you book, that will cover you for unforeseeable circumstances such as illness or injury that might result in you not being able to take part in your expedition.
1. Medical injury or sickness
2. Mountaineering above 5,000 metres
3. Helicopter evacuation in an emergency situation
4. Repatriation to country of residence.
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